This is a humorous post I sent to the 928 rennlist
This conversion is a lengthy process that while being almost a bolt-in swap, still has many things to consider and challenges to work out. Two of the most tricky things are understanding the 928 wiring harness and fabricating an exhaust system. Understanding the harness can only be accomplished with the schematics of the Workshop Manuals and
some level of electrical engineering expertise. Fabricating the exhaust system is what you make of it. Did you want headers? Do you weld? Can you bend tubes? If not, you're going to have to pay someone and it's not going to be cheap. I built my own headers and saved about $1000. I bought a complete exhaust system from a good friend for pennies on
the dollar.
Here's the rest of the story...in a nutshell:
if you're converting a 928 automatic, then there are differences.
If you're running a carb, there are differences [fuel injection pumps are way too high pressure for carbs].
If it's a 5-speed and the engine has fuel injection, the nutshell looks
like this...
(If it's an automatic, I haven't done it, but I know how it's done. If it's a
carb, I know how to do that too, but carbs are crap! Trust me)
go to the bank and get money
yank the 928 motor and radiator
remove the Porsche bellhousing
drop the sway bar out of the way
go to the bank and get more money
bolt the torque tube (TT) adapter onto the torque tube
replace the central shaft
bolt the Chevy bell housing to the TT adapter
sleeping in the dog house now
slip the throw out (t-out) bearing guide tube over the central shaft
bolt the t-out bearing guide tube to the bell housing
slip the hydraulic t-out bearing onto the guide tube
make a bunch of measurements and calculations to determine, fore and
aft, where this is supposed to be positioned
attach the hydraulic input line of the t-out bearing to the porsche clutch
hydraulics
bolt the motor braces [I built my own braces to get another inch of hood clearance] to the upper control arm's forward bolts and lower control arm's forward caps (where the P engine vibration dampers used to mount)
go to the bank and get more money
bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, sandwiching the clutch disc within
(btw, it's a Chrysler disc; same center as the 928 and a 10.5 surface that mates nicely w/ the Chevy pressure plate. Also, do yourselves a favor and go with Centerforce for these parts)
remove the stock chevy oil pan (if there is one to remove)
install the special oil pick-up tube [modified to fit in a shorter space]
bolt on the modified oil pan [it's cut back to clear the sway bar and then
deepened an inch to get volume back]
drop the motor into the engine bay
move the SO out of the house
manhandle the engine as you struggle to get that central shaft thru the clutch
disc
bolt the bellhousing to the motor
check the t-out bearing clearance (very tricky. I cut a slot/window in the
bottom of my bellhousing)
tend to wounds on knuckles
bolt the chevy motor mounts to the motor braces
go to the bank and get more money
attach the accessories (alt, pwr str pump, whatever)
hook the pwr steering hoses up (may be some fab'ing here, depending on what
you do)
[I used the Porsche pump and just fab'ed a bracket to bolt it to the chevy
block]
go to the bank and get more money
break out the Workshop Manuals and find T-14. Almost all electrical
connections go here.
You'll find the starter solenoid connection and the gauges in this junction
block. Hook 'em up
hook up your fuel lines [if you're running fuel injection, the stock pump works fine]
go to the bank and get more money
run a longer 1 ga. battery cable from the battery to the starter. (Stock one is
too short)
go to the bank and get more money
drop in your new, larger Al radiator, complete with dual electric fans (I found a Griffin unit that fit quite well for $200)
fabricate, weld and bolt your exhaust system together
finalize divorce
finish the odds and ends
whip it out, ride it hard and put it away wet! WTF! You're a single man now!
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