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  • It's tough to get in a good ride and get good video. In fact, it just doesn't happen. Good rides keep on pedaling while good video requires stopping, setting up and riding a "feature" several times and filming it from several angles.
  • Helmet-Camera-only videos SUCK! There's just too much movement for the average viewer.
  • If you're using a remote lens or a camera on your helmet, adjust your riding style. Minimize head shake. Be aware of where the lens is pointed. I use a zip tie that is affixed to my visor, right in the middle of the tip of the visor, hanging vertically down about 2 inches. It's like the site on a gun. I can line it up with the subject and keep the subject in frame.
  • If you're using a remote lens or camera on your helmet, make sure to shoot and review some test footage to be certain that the angle of the lens is correct. There is nothing much worse than finishing a ride and finding that all the footage has the lens pointed either too high or too low.
  • If you're using a remote lens or camera on your helmet, try to keep your head steady all the time.
  • If you're using a remote lens or camera on your helmet, be aware of where the lens is pointed. I know - I already said that, but it's important.
  • If you're using a remote lens or camera on your helmet, a LANC remote control can save footage and time. With the LANC, you can start the camera, start the recording, pause the recording, restart the recording and shut the camera off at any time with the push of a button. I route my LANC so that it hangs from my CamelBak chest strap. By having the ability to control the recording, I can NOT record the boring sections such as the long, 4000 ft climbs and start recording the sweet and fast sections - all with the push of a button. This means there's less tape to review during the production phase.
  • For the remote lens, I used to carry the "pack mule" camera in a semi-hard shell case (made by Digital Concepts) that can be affixed to my CamelBak chest strap. That allowed me the ability to quickly pull the camera out and check the monitor to verify that the aim was good. It also allowed me the option to quickly unplug the remote lens and use that camera for some of the "off bike" film work. But since I now have 3 cameras, I put the "pack mule" in the semi-hard shell case and stuff it into the CamelBak. I carry the "off bike" cameras in another semi-hard shell case that is affixed to the chest strap.
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  • Set up for multiple angles of a feature as someone rides it.
  • Overhead shots rock.
  • Consider building a quick clamp to be able to use your bike as a tripod of sorts. See, after you've been riding a bit and you're breathing hard, it's difficult to keep the camera steady without some form of bracing. Carrying an actual tripod would be unyieldy. But if you had a tripod shoe on the camera and a clamp on, say, your handlebars, it would sure beat leaning up against a cactus to keep the camera steady!
  • Consider using the remote lens in special mounting locations -- off of the end of the fork or under the seat, pointing to the rear.
  • If everyone in the group has a camera, the selection of footage during production gets better.
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